Cov txheej txheem:

Handmade seam. Tes seam. Handmade hniav plooj
Handmade seam. Tes seam. Handmade hniav plooj
Anonim

Kev nthuav dav ntawm cov khaub ncaws tau koom ua ke nrog cov seams. Rau qhov no, ib rab koob yog siv. Nrog nws cov kev pab, stitches yog tsim nrog ib tug xov ntawm ib tug ntaub los yog lwm yam ntaub ntawv, lawv tag nrho cov ntaub ntawv ib tug seam.

Ua ntej tsim lub tshuab xaws, txhua txoj haujlwm tau ua los ntawm tes. Hauv tsev thiab hauv kev tsim khoom siv tes ua, qhov kev xyaum no tseem muaj. Ib phau ntawv seam kuj tseem yog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm thawj theem ntawm kev tsim cov qauv khaub ncaws. Ntau hom kev xaws yog siv los kho cov ntaub.

Seam phau ntawv
Seam phau ntawv

Sewing Principles

Ib qho kev sib txuas yog tsim los ntawm kev xaws ib lossis ntau cov xov hauv ib ntu. Nws yog ib qho tsim nyog yuav tsum ceev nrooj ib ntus ntawm tus qauv ntawm cov qauv ntawm thawj theem. Qhov kev sib txuas no feem ntau yog ua los ntawm tes. Tom qab haum thiab zaum kawg, tes seam yog hloov los ntawm tshuab stitching.

Nyob ntawm lub hom phiaj kawg, cov khaub ncaws tuaj yeem txuas nrog ntau txoj hauv kev. Nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv no, cov seams yuav txawv heev nyob rau hauv stitch ceev, lub zog, thiab lwm yam.

BQee qhov xwm txheej, nws tsis yog qhov zoo ntawm kev sib txuas ua ntej, tab sis cov khoom zoo nkauj ntawm kev tso cov xov ntawm lub hauv ntej. Xws li cov seams yog hu ua hniav thiab lawv ua hauj lwm kom tiav cov khoom tiav.

Qhov kev ua tiav ntawm rab koob thiab xov ua ib txoj hlua ntawm cov khoom. Qhov sib lawv liag ntawm cov yeeb yam no yog hu ua kab. Koom nrog ib daim ntaub nrog ib los yog ntau qhov stitches ua ib qho seam.

Txawm li cas los xij, txoj hlua khi ntawm sab xis thiab qhov tsis ncaj ncees yuav tsum tau muab tso sib npaug, nyob rau tib qhov deb ntawm ib leeg, thiab muaj cov xov nruj.

Tes seam xaws
Tes seam xaws

hom kev sib txuas ntawm phau ntawv

Rau kev sib txuas ib ntus ntawm cov khoom thiab cov cim thaum lub sij hawm haum, siv ib qho kev khiav, cushioning thiab hloov seam. Lub npe hu ua snares yog siv los hloov cov kab contour ntawm ib feem ntawm cov khoom mus rau lwm qhov.

Cov npoo ntawm cov khoom yog ua tiav nrog ib puag ncig seam. Nws yog qhov yooj yim los siv nws rau kev npaj frills, flounces thiab lwm yam ntsiab lus. Ib phau ntawv seam-line, reminiscent ntawm lub tshuab ua ib qho, hu ua stitch. Nws yog siv rau kev ruaj khov ntawm cov khaub ncaws mus tas li.

Lub cim seam yog tsim, nrog rau cov plooj, tab sis tsis nrog tib qhov ntom. Qhov kev ncua deb ntawm cov kab uas nyob ib sab yog ua kom sib npaug rau ib nrab ntawm lawv qhov ntev. Txhawm rau tiv thaiv "tso" ntawm cov npoo ntawm cov ntaub, lawv tau kho nrog cov seam overcast. Nws tuaj yeem ua oblique, cruciform lossis looped raws li cov txheej txheem ua tiav.

Cov hem plooj yog siv los ua cov npoo npoo. Raws li cov txheej txheem ua tiav, nws tuaj yeem yooj yim (qhib), zais cia lossiscurly.

Handmade hniav plooj
Handmade hniav plooj

sawv kev sib txuas

Ua ntej tsim lub tshuab xaws, tes xaws tau siv los khi cov khaub ncaws. Qhov sib txawv ntawm kev sib txuas ntawm basting thiab kev sib txuas yog tias rab koob tsis txav mus tas li, tab sis rov qab los nrog txhua qhov kev txhaj tshuaj tshiab.

Cov hlua khi tsis yog tsim hloov pauv, tom qab ntawd rau pem hauv ntej, tom qab ntawm sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm, tab sis hla. Qhov no ua kom muaj zog thiab elasticity ntawm kev sib txuas.

Ntawm sab xis, cov hlua khi luv, ntawm tib qhov deb ntawm ib leeg. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, ntawm sab hauv lawv yog peb zaug ntev dua, sib tshooj ib leeg, tsis muaj qhov khoob thiab tsim ib txoj kab ruaj khov.

Lub tshuab ua tes xaws, lossis "stitch", yog qhov tshwj xeeb ruaj khov. Nrog rau kev ua tau zoo, muaj kev tsis ntseeg tias nws yog tsim los ntawm tes. Stitches rau pem hauv ntej ntawm tib qhov loj tsis muaj qhov khoob, nyob rau hauv lawv sib tshooj thiab ntev li ob zaug.

Phau ntawv furrier stitch
Phau ntawv furrier stitch

Txoj kev sib koom ua ke

Cov seams no tseem hu ua "rov qab koob". Thiab qhov no yog qhov ncaj ncees, vim hais tias nrog txhua qhov tawm mus rau sab pem hauv ntej, nws siv ib kauj ruam rov qab. Qhov kev ncua deb tuaj yeem yog ib nrab ntawm purl plooj lossis ib feem peb ntawm nws. Nyob ntawm lub hom phiaj ntawm kev sib txuas, qhov sib txawv tuaj yeem yog 1 txog 7 hli.

Saw ntawm sab xis mus rau sab laug. Lub koob yog ntxig los ntawm sab saum toj mus rau hauv qab, tuav nyob rau hauv cov ntaub thiab coj mus rau pem hauv ntej ib feem nrog tsim ib tug plooj ntawm qhov yuav tsum tau ntev ntawm lub sab hauv. Tom qab ntawd nws yuav siv sij hawm rov qab. Kev txhaj tshuajyog ua dua nyob rau hauv thawj lub qhov, tom qab uas lub voj voog yog rov ua ob qho tib si los ntawm sab hauv thiab rau pem hauv ntej. Nyob rau hauv rooj plaub no, ib txhais tes stitch "stitch" yog tsim.

Yog tias, tom qab cov xov raug coj tawm mus rau sab xub ntiag, qhov kev txhaj tshuaj thib ob yog ua tsis tau rau hauv thawj lub qhov, tab sis nyob nruab nrab ntawm qhov nkag thiab tawm ntawm rab koob, ces xws li phau ntawv lo lo lo ntxhuav hu ua " ntawm koob". Nws tsis tsim ib txoj kab ntawm stitches ntawm sab xis, tsis muaj zog li "stitch", tab sis sai dua.

Tshuaj seams

Qee zaum, thaum txhim kho qhov chaw ntawm cov khaub ncaws lossis kho ib qho ntawm nws, tus qauv yog tsim rau ntawm qhov chaw uas txaus siab rau lub qhov muag. Qhov kev sib txuas no hu ua tiav.

Tshuab tes seam
Tshuab tes seam

Rau hemming knitwear thiab xaws tuab cov ntaub uas tsis ntws, siv tes ua cov hniav tshis stitch, tsim cov qauv ntoo khaub lig yooj yim.

Kev sib txuas ntawm tus txiv plig txiav cov npoo ntawm hnab ris, txiav thiab quav. Xws li fasteners yog tsim nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm ib tug equilateral daim duab peb sab. Loop stitches nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm cov ceg thiab chains yog raug rau saw plooj thiab herringbone. Lawv siv rau hemming cov npoo ntawm cov khoom.

Cov hom kev ua tiav no kuj tseem siv tau los txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm

Paj ntaub

Mass Hoobkas tsim cov khaub ncaws thawb tes xaws rau hauv keeb kwm yav dhau. Tsuas yog qhov tseeb connoisseurs ntawm thawj cov khaub ncaws lossis paj ntaub kos duab tau koom nrog hauv cov khoom siv tes ua no. Qee lub sij hawm qhov kev xav ntawm cov kws txiav plaub hau zoo li no zoo kawg nkaus thaum muaj qhov tshwj xeebcov khoom nrog sewn-on lapels, vents, buttonholes thiab hnab ris.

Nkauj qhuas vaj tswv thiab xuas tes xuas tes thaum ua tiav cov robe ntawm cov txiv plig yog ib qho yuav tsum tau xyaum. Kev saib xyuas tshwj xeeb thiab qhov tseeb yog qhov yuav tsum tau ua hauv kev npaj cov khoom plig ntawm episcopal. Handmade embroidered icons yog cov txheej txheem tshwj xeeb uas yuav tsum tau muaj kev mob siab rau, kev txawj tshwj xeeb thiab kev ua siab dawb ntawm kev xav.

Convent tus muam thiab tes plooj
Convent tus muam thiab tes plooj

Qhov chaw tshwj xeeb yog nyob ntawm kub thiab paj ntaub, nrog rau cov ntaub pua plag thiab ntim cov txheej txheem. Ua hauj lwm ntawm amazing kev zoo nkauj, trimmed nrog sequins, iav, hlaws dai thiab kub. Hla-stitch tau paub txij thaum ancient sij hawm, thiab xuas tes ua paintings, décor khoom, thiab khaub ncaws tau dai kom zoo nkauj nrog nws.

Tes satin plooj yog ib txoj hlua khi ntawm cov ntaub. Nyob rau hauv tus txheej txheem ntawm kev ua hauj lwm, lawv tag nrho cov contour ntawm daim ntawv thov zoo nkauj qauv. Nyob rau hauv cov txheej txheem no, seams ntawm ntau yam designs yog siv: "Vladimir", "stem", "knot", "nqa satin yob", "txuas voj" thiab lwm yam. Muaj ob peb hom du nto: kos duab xim, dawb, satin, Suav, Nyiv, Lavxias teb sab Alexander thiab Mstera.

Hand Fur Stitch

Nws yog siv los txuas qhov chaw ntawm cov tawv nqaij tawv thiab rau kev kho me me. Rau kev xaws, koob thiab xov yog siv raws li lub thickness ntawm daim tawv nqaij txheej. Qhov tuab thiab ntev ntawm cov plaub, qhov loj ntawm txoj kab uas hla ntawm cov xov thiab qhov loj ntawm rab koob. Txhawm rau txuas cov tawv nqaij nyias, lub plooj zaus yuav tsum nce.

Lub seam yog tsim los ntawm sab xis mus rau sab laug. Thaum kawg ntawm cov xov, lub pob caus tsis yogyog ua tiav, nws yog fastened nrog ob peb stitches nyob rau hauv ib qho chaw. Ua ntej pib ua haujlwm, cov pawg yuav tsum tau muab tso rau hauv ib txoj kev uas nws tsis cuam tshuam rau kev xaws. Rau qhov no, cov tawv nqaij yog folded nrog plaub sab hauv. Cov plaub hau nyias nyias muaj ib rab koob rau pem hauv ntej.

Ib phau ntawv furrier stitch yog ua los ntawm kev txav rab koob deb ntawm koj. Ob daim tawv nqaij yog pierced ib zaug, cov xov yog rub, muab pov rau ntawm ntug thiab dua nkag mus rau hauv tib lub qhov. Tom qab zawm cov xov kom nruj, lub voj yog nruj. Lub koob tau muab pov tseg dua ntawm ntug, thiab cov txheej txheem rov ua dua nrog lub qhov thib ob.

Tes seam
Tes seam

Secrets of craftsmanship

Handmade seam pib nrog rub lub xov koob rau hauv lub qhov muag. Yog li ntawd nws yuav tsum tau mloog lus nyob rau hauv kev ua hauj lwm, tsis tau tsis meej pem thiab tsis twist, nws yuav tsum tau txiav los ntawm lub kauj tom qab threading.

Tshuaj txhuam hniav ua rau cov hniav tsis zoo ib yam. Nws yog qhov zoo dua los ua kom zoo nkauj nrog txiab ntse tsis hla nws, tab sis ntawm lub kaum sab xis, ces nws yuav yooj yim rau hauv pob ntseg.

Nws yog qhov zoo dua tsis txhob xaws cov pob caus ntawm qhov kawg ntawm cov xov, tab sis yuav tsum ceev nws nrog ob peb txoj hlua rov qab. Cov kws ua haujlwm paub txog kev paub paub tias txhua lub foob ntawm cov ntaub thaum ironed tuaj yeem luam tawm ntawm qhov chaw lossis yuav ua kom pom tseeb.

Kev xaws nrog cov xov ntev (ntau dua 70 cm) tsis yooj yim. Thaum ub, cov craftswomen xyaum txoj kev no tau hais tias yog cov ntxhais tub nkeeg uas tsis xav ua ib qho ntxiv.

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