Cov txheej txheem:

Tshuab seams: tshuab thiab hom. Tshuab seams: txuas, ntug
Tshuab seams: tshuab thiab hom. Tshuab seams: txuas, ntug
Anonim

Kev xaws khaub ncaws ntawm tes tsis muaj txiaj ntsig ntxiv lawm. Nrog kev pab ntawm lub tshuab xaws, qhov no tshwm sim sai dua thiab zoo dua. Thiab ntau hom tshuab seams tso cai rau koj los ua cov khoom kom ruaj khov li sai tau. Nws yog zoo zam tsis tau tsuas yog los ntawm kev siv mus sij hawm ntev, tab sis kuj los ntawm kev ntxuav tas li. Qhov tseem ceeb yog kom paub qhov twg yuav ua li cas xaws.

Seam classification

Txawm nyob hauv tsev kawm ntawv, cov menyuam kawm ntau yam ntawm cov tshuab xaws. Qib 7 txawm kawm paub yuav ua li cas xaws tshuab.

tshuab seams
tshuab seams

Tag nrho cov seams tau muab faib ua peb hom: txuas, ntug thiab tiav. Kev sib txuas cov seams yog tsim los txhawm rau ua ke sib txawv ntawm cov khoom lag luam yav tom ntej. Xws li tshuab seams yog suav tias yog yooj yim. Tau kawg, muaj qhov txawv txav ntawm lawv, tab sis lawv siv tsis tshua muaj.

Ntug seams yog tsim los tsim cov npoo ntawm cov khoom kom lawv tsis fray thiab tsis lwj qhov tsos. Lawv tsuas yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm cov connectors. Txawm hais tias muaj qee cov txheej txheem thaum cov npoo tau tso tseg tsis muaj sheathed. Tab sis cov no yog cov xwm txheej tshwj xeeb.

Tiav seams tsis tshua txuas qhov chaw ntawm cov khoom lossis ua nws cov npoo. Lawv tau tsim los kho kom zoo nkauj thiab tsim cov teebmeem txawv txawv. Tshuab xov seamsyog qhov chaw nyob nruab nrab ntawm cov paj ntaub thiab cov stitching tsis tu ncua.

Ntau yam kev sib txuas seams

Nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv tshwj xeeb, cov ntsiab lus ntawm lub tshuab seams yog qhov dav heev, thiab qee zaum me ntsis synonymous. Ib qho thiab tib lub seam yuav muaj ntau lub npe, tab sis thev naus laus zis ntawm nws qhov kev ua tiav tsis hloov ntawm qhov no.

Tailors paub qhov txawv ntawm cov seams hauv qab no:

  • Stitch thiab hem yog siv los txuas ob daim ntaub yooj yim.
  • Ob chav inverted seam yog tsim nyog rau hauv txaj linen thiab me nyuam cov khaub ncaws. Nws tsis muaj qhov caws pliav ntxhib, thiab cov npoo ntawm cov ntaub ua tiav hauv txoj kev no tsis tawg.
  • Cov tho txawv yog siv rau hauv cov chaw uas ciam teb ntawm cov ntaub sib txuas yuav tsum tau muab zais kom ntau li ntau tau.
  • Kev xaws xaws muaj ob txoj kev xaiv. Feem ntau nws pom nyob rau hauv cov ris tsho hnav ris tsho. Yog li ntawd, nws lub npe thib ob yog denim.
  • Ib qho kev teeb tsa seam yog qhov tsim nyog txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau ruaj ntseg ob qhov chaw hauv qhov chaw uas lawv yuav muaj qhov siab tshaj plaws.

Raws li koj tuaj yeem pom, tshuab seams muaj ntau haiv neeg, thiab lawv tau siv rau cov haujlwm tshwj xeeb. Txhawm rau kom lawv muaj kev ua haujlwm siab tshaj plaws, nws yog ib qho tsim nyog yuav tsum tau ua tib zoo saib xyuas cov thev naus laus zis rau kev siv.

Txhim kho thiab hla cov seams

Lub tshuab tseem ceeb seams uas txuas cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov khaub ncaws yog stitching thiab tig. Qhov tseeb, cov no yog cov sib txawv ntawm ib lub seam siv rau ntau lub hom phiaj.

hom tshuab seams
hom tshuab seams

Lub seam yog raws li cov xov txuas txuas. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, qhov dav ntawm seam nws tus kheej ncaj qha nyob ntawm qhov zoo thiabcov khoom ntawm cov ntaub, nrog rau lub hom phiaj ntawm kev siv cov khoom. Qhov dav yog qhov kev ncua deb ntawm ntug ntawm ib feem mus rau kab.

Nws cov thev naus laus zis zoo li qhov no: cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov khoom yog folded nrog lawv sab xis rau ib leeg thiab stitched ntawm ib qho kev ncua deb ntawm ntug. Tom ntej no, cov seem tuaj yeem raug ironed, uas yog, nteg tawm ntawm ob sab thiab smoothed nrog ib tug hlau, los yog ironed nyob rau hauv ib qho kev taw qhia los yog ntawm ntug.

Rau dab tshos, pluaj, hnab tshos flaps thiab cuffs, nws tsim nyog siv lub nraub qaum. Ua ntej, cov khoom yog stitched nrog ib tug stitched seam. Tom qab ntawd, nyob rau sab pem hauv ntej, nws yog ib qhov tsim nyog los cheb cov khoom kom tau txais ib qho me me edging - 1-2 mm dav. Tab sis qhov no tsis yog axiom. Piv txwv li, lub overcast seam tuaj yeem ncav cuag li 8 hli yog tias nws yog ib daim ntaub crumbling. Cov no yog hom tshuab seam uas yog cov tseem ceeb rau tailors.

Nyob zoo ib tsoom phooj ywg sawv daws kwv txhiaj

Nov yog ib txoj hlua ruaj khov thiab txhim khu kev qha. Txhua tus uas hnav ris tsho hauv tsev tau pom nws. Thiab txhua tus muaj lawv. Nyob rau hauv txhua phau ntawv, koj yuav pom ntau hom tshuab seams, lub rooj uas ib txwm muaj ob peb ntau yam ntawm xaws (denim) seams. Nws qhov zoo dua yog qhov zoo nkauj sib npaug ntawm sab xub ntiag thiab sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm.

hom tshuab seam
hom tshuab seam

Lub thev naus laus zis ntawm nws qhov chaw tsim khoom yog qhov tseeb thiab yooj yim. Quav ob daim sab xis sab hauv. Hauv qhov no, qhov qis dua yuav tsum protrude ntawm qhov deb li ntawm 1 cm ntawm hauv qab sab saud. Peb sew cov khoom ua ke ntawm qhov deb li ntawm 7 mm ntawm ntug ntawm sab saum toj. Thawj theem ntawm kev ua haujlwm ntawm lub seam yog tiav.

Kev txiav qis ntawm cov khoom yuav tsum tau khoov rau txoj kab thiabnpog nrog sab saum toj txheej ntawm ntaub. Tig cov khoom mus rau sab nraud, peb xaws ib lub quav ntawm qhov deb ntawm 1-2 mm ntawm nws ntug ntawm ob sab. Peb yuav muaj cov quav nrog ob kab sib npaug uas zoo ib yam los ntawm sab xub ntiag thiab sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm.

Lwm cov tshuab xaws xaws

Txuag seams yog dav siv thaum txuas hnab ris lossis yokes nrog cov khoom. Lawv muaj qhov nruab nrab ntawm lub zog. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, yuav tsum muaj qib siab ntawm kev xaws xaws, vim qhov tsis sib xws yuav ua rau cov khoom tsis zoo.

Cov seam no tuaj nyob rau hauv ob hom: qhib thiab kaw. Rau cov ntug kaw, ib feem yog pre-ironed thiab basted kom nws yooj yim mus ua hauj lwm nrog. Lub tshuab seam yog yooj yim. Qhov tsim nyog nthuav dav yog superimposed rau ntawm qhov chaw predetermined thiab sewn nrog ib tug tsis tu ncua los yog dai kom zoo nkauj stitch. Qhov chaw xaws yog smoothed zoo.

tshuab seams qib 7
tshuab seams qib 7

Cov seam topstitched yog rau kev sib txuas-kho kom zoo nkauj. Nws yog ua los ntawm lub hauv paus ntawm ib tug stitched seam. Nws qhov dav yuav tsum yog me ntsis loj dua, vim hais tias ntawm sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm cov npoo ntawm lub seam yog smoothed tawm thiab sewn parallel rau lub ntsiab. Qhov kev ncua deb tuaj yeem yog dab tsi. Qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws yog saib ob yam tseem ceeb tshaj plaws:

1) cov seams yuav tsum nruj me ntsis sib luag nrog kev hwm rau nruab nrab;

2) qhov kev ncua deb ntawm qhov chaw nruab nrab mus rau sab seams yuav tsum sib npaug zoo kawg nkaus.

Txwv tsis pub, tag nrho cov khoom siv kho kom zoo nkauj yuav ploj mus, thiab tsuas muaj cov khoom tsis zoo.

Txoj kev ua tiav

Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb rau txhua yam khoom kom raugtxiav nws cov ntug. Rau cov hom phiaj kev lag luam thiab cov kws txiav plaub hau, muaj ib qho overlocker rau cov hom phiaj no. Lub tshuab no tso cai rau koj los sheathe ntug kom nws yuav tsis crumble dua. Tab sis outwardly nws tsis zoo heev. Yog li ntawd, pom cov npoo qiv lawv tus kheej rau kev ua haujlwm ntxiv.

Rau lub hom phiaj no, ob leeg khoov cov ntaub thiab nws cov edging yog siv. Nws nyob ntawm hom thiab cov qauv ntawm cov khoom siv uas tus tswv ua haujlwm. Tsis tas li, cov yam ntxwv ua tau zoo ua rau lawv tus kheej cov yam ntxwv ntawm kev ua cov npoo.

Feem ntau siv yog ntau yam hem stitches thiab edging tshuab stitches. Qib 7 hauv cov tsev kawm ntawv txheeb xyuas cov thev naus laus zis ntawm cov ntsiab lus tseem ceeb. Yog li ntawd, txhua tus poj niam paub kwv yees li cas lawv tau ua thiab thaum twg nws zoo dua los siv lawv.

hom tshuab seams rooj
hom tshuab seams rooj

Qee zaum koj tuaj yeem muab lawv ua tiav nrog cov seams lossis cov hlua dai kom zoo nkauj kom zoo nkauj dua.

Nyob zoo ib tsoom niam txiv kwv tij neej tsas sawv daws

Cov hom kev siv tshuab ntau tshaj plaws rau kev ua tiav ntawm ntug ntawm cov khoom yog ntau yam seams hauv lub hem. Cia peb pib nrog qhov yooj yim tshaj plaws - nrog qhib ntug. Peb muab cov khoom thiab hlau nws cov npoo mus rau sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm. Tom qab ntawd, peb xaws nrog ib tug niaj hnub los yog zoo nkauj plooj ntawm ib tug deb ntawm 5-7 mm los ntawm khoov. Yog hais tias peb tab tom soj ntsuam nrog ib tug crumbling ntaub, ces nws yog zoo dua rau overlock nws ua ntej. Hom seam no yog siv kom tsis txhob hnyav rau hauv qab ntawm cov khoom. Tab sis ntug yog ib txwm ua rau fraying.

Ob chav seam tso cai rau koj los nkaum cov ntug nyoos sab hauv. Txhawm rau ua qhov no, thawj zaug hlau lub ntug nyob rau hauv cov kev taw qhia ntawm sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm, thiab ces khoov nws thiab hlau nws dua, nkaum ntug.sab hauv. Tom qab ntawd, sew lub seam nyob rau hauv xws li ib tug stitching ob txheej. Xws li cov seam yog ntau txhim khu kev qha, tab sis kuj voluminous nyob rau tib lub sij hawm, uas tsis zoo heev rau lub teeb khoom.

Lwm qhov kev xaiv rau lub hem - ob lub seam yog sewn ob zaug, 2-3 millimeters los ntawm lub hauv qab khoov, thiab tib qhov deb yog retreated los ntawm sab sauv sab hauv hem. Hom seam no feem ntau pom hauv cov ris tsho thiab ris tsho hnav, uas feem ntau raug hnav.

Rim seams

Rau lub caj dab thiab hauv qab ntawm lub tes tsho hauv blouses, qee zaum xav tau kev siv tshuab sib txawv. Tshuab seams ntawm no yuav tsum yog lub teeb thiab nrog tsawg caws pliav kom tsis txhob rub daim tawv nqaij. Nyob rau hauv tas li ntawd, ntug seams yog siv.

Nws yog qhov nyuaj heev uas yuav ua rau lawv yam tsis muaj qhov ua ntej basting, vim hais tias cov seamstress yuav tsum ua raws li peb ntug. Hauv qhov no, lub edging yog khoov rau sab hauv, uas ua rau cov txheej txheem nyuaj.

Kant yog ib lub ntsej muag ntawm cov ntaub uas kaw cov ntug sab nrauv ntawm cov khoom. Nws raug xaiv kom ntev li ntev tau tias nws txaus rau kev ua tiav nyob ib ncig ntawm tag nrho ib puag ncig. Ntawm ob sab, lub edging nrov plig plawg yog ironed nyob rau hauv kev coj ntawm sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm. Tom qab ntawd nws yog swept rau cov khoom thiab stitched kom ze rau ntawm ntug li sai tau.

technology tshuab seams
technology tshuab seams

Ib qho kev xaiv nyuaj me ntsis yog kev sib dhos ua ntej ntawm ntug ntawm cov khoom rau hauv folds. Nyob rau hauv xws li mob, edging yog tsuas yog tsim nyog nyob rau hauv thiaj li yuav ntxiv durability rau cov khoom. Tab sis stitching nws nyuaj dua kom cov folds sib xws.

Txoj hlua khi

Kev xaws cov khoom tsis yog qhov teeb meem. Ntaunws yog qhov nyuaj dua los ua kom nws zoo nkauj, graceful thiab fashionable. Rau cov hom phiaj no, muaj ntau hom tshuab seams. Daim duab kos duab zoo nkauj yog ib txwm suav nrog koj lub tshuab xaws. Lawv cov kev siv yuav twb ho enliven cov khoom. Tab sis koj tuaj yeem siv ntau txoj hauv kev. Ua li no, koj yuav tsum qhia me ntsis kev xav thiab kev txawj xaws.

Qhov tseeb, txhua qhov zoo nkauj thiab ua tiav seams yog nyob ntawm kev sib txuas thiab ntug. Nws tsuas yog hais tias hauv lawv qhov kev ua tau zoo, cov tswv yim uas tsis tshua meej rau lawv tau siv. Qhov twg, peb yuav xav txog hauv qab no.

Txoj kev sib haum xeeb

Peb txhua tus paub tias, piv txwv li, lub tsho poj niam muaj ob lub txee rau pem hauv ntej thiab nraub qaum. Tsis muaj ib yam dab tsi tshwj xeeb zoo nkauj txog nws. Ntshiab classic thiab tho txawv. Tab sis tib lub rhawv tuaj yeem txiav tawm ntawm ob lossis ntau qhov chaw, thiab txuas rau lawv, siv ntau hom tshuab seams, cov tswv yim uas peb tau tshuaj xyuas saum toj no.

tshuab xov seams
tshuab xov seams

Ntxiv qee qhov "hooliganism" hauv lub cuffs. Peb yuav sew lawv nrog ib tug overhead seam, thiab txawm los ntawm ob peb flaps. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, cov npoo ntawm lub tom kawg yog me ntsis disheveled, zoo li yog tias lawv yog thaj ua rau me me. Ntawm chav kawm, xws li ib tug txheej txheem yuav ua hauj lwm tsuas yog nrog ntuj ntaub, uas xyaum tsis crumble. Tab sis nws qhia txog lub ntsiab lus tseem ceeb ntawm kev ua tiav seams - tsis txhob ntshai sim.

tshuab xaws

Txhawm rau ua cov hom kev siv tshuab seams, lub tshuab xaws hauv tsev yog txaus. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov qauv niaj hnub no feem ntau tuaj nrog cov paws thiab txuas ntxiv uas pab txhawb txoj haujlwm no. Ib txhia ntawm lawv txawm cia koj ua me paj ntaub,uas yog ib qho tseem ceeb nyob rau hauv cov txheej txheem ntawm decorating khoom.

Tib lub sijhawm, qee cov kws tsim khoom lag luam hais tias tsis muaj cov qauv niaj hnub tuaj yeem piv nrog cov tsheb qub qub qub qub qub. Qhov no qhia tau tias rau kev ua haujlwm zoo, kev txawj ntse thiab kev txawj ntse me ntsis yog txaus.

Pom zoo: