Linen seam (yuav sew): master class

2024 Tus sau: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2024-02-26 05:16

Yuav xaws ib lub txaj pw, koj yuav tsum kawm qee yam ntawm cov seams uas tau siv tshwj xeeb rau lub hom phiaj no. Qhov no yog ob lub seam, uas tseem hu ua Fabkis txoj hauv lwm txoj hauv kev, nrog rau kev xaws seam, uas tseem hu ua denim seam, los yog lub xauv seam. Txhua ntawm lawv muaj ob kab. Nyob rau hauv tsab xov xwm no, peb yuav saib ntawm txhua qhov linen seam - yuav ua li cas xaws, yuav ua li cas rau baste, raws li zoo raws li kev ua yuam kev thaum ua rau lawv thiab yuav ua li cas tiv thaiv lawv.

Dab tsi yog linen seam

Linen seam (ib chav kawm master yuav tau tham hauv tsab xov xwm no) muab lub zog tshwj xeeb, nrog rau qhov zoo nkauj zoo nkauj rau hauv txaj. Xws li cov seams yog siv nyob rau hauv rooj plaub uas cov khoom yuav tsum tau ntxuav ntau zaus thiab raug rau ntau lwm yam loads. Thaum ntxhua hauv tshuab ntxhua khaub ncaws, feem ntau cov seams uas tau ua tiav nrog cov pa overlock sai sai yuav siv tsis tau, uas, ntawm chav kawm, tsis tuaj yeem hais txog linen seams. Linen seam ntawm lub tshuab ntaus ntawvtej yam kev mob ntawm lub Hoobkas tsoos tsho yog ua los ntawm ib tug tshwj xeeb ko taw, uas zoo heev simplifies tag nrho cov txheej txheem. Tab sis hauv tsev, peb yuav tsum tswj hwm lwm txoj hauv kev.

Linen hem

Sewing stitch (denim) yog siv thaum xaws ntaub pw, sportswear, thiab suits uas yuav tsum tsis txhob muaj hauv ob sab phlu.

Nws yog ib qho tsim nyog yuav tsum tau quav ob daim ntaub ntawm sab hauv, tso ib qho kev txiav ntawm qhov qis ntawm cov ntaub mus rau qhov dav ntawm cov seam (xya millimeters) ntxiv rau ob millimeters rau kev ua haujlwm (nyiaj pub). cheb cov ntsiab lus nrog "pem hauv ntej koob" seam. Sew ob qho tib si ib millimeter ntawm qhov quav.

Nws yog ib qho tsim nyog yuav tsum ua tib zoo xyuas kom tag nrho cov ntaub folds yog tib yam thiab zoo huv si. Cov tsos ntawm creases los yog tucks ntawm cov ntaub yog tsis tso cai. Thaum kawg ntawm txoj kab, ua tib zoo tshem tawm tag nrho cov basting. Tig cov khoom yuav tsum tau sewn nyob rau hauv ntau txoj kev. Khoov lub seam nws tus kheej mus rau ib sab kom nrog nws cov kev pab nws muaj peev xwm kaw cov ntaub seem. Baste dua.

Tam sim no koj yuav tsum nteg lwm txoj kab, uas yuav tsum nyob ntawm qhov deb ntawm ob millimeters ntawm ntug folded. Ua tib zoo tshem tawm cov basting. Peb tau txheeb xyuas ib txoj hlua khi - yuav ua li cas xaws thiab cheb nws, thiab yog vim li cas nws thiaj li xav tau. Qhov kawg kov tseem nyob: hlau seam thaum tiav.

Yuav ua li cas xaws ko taw

Rau qhov txheej txheemLub tshuab xaws niaj hnub no suav nrog ko taw tshwj xeeb rau kev ua kom nqaim tig ntawm cov ntaub nyias nyias. Cov ko taw no tuaj yeem hu ua txawv thiab txawm tias muaj qhov sib txawv me ntsis. Tab sis nws yog zoo meej rau ua ib tug xaws seam. Muaj tseeb tiag, koj yuav tsum tau kho qhov tseeb tias nws yuav tsis tuaj yeem tau txais cov seam zoo nrog nws txoj kev pab tam sim ntawd, koj yuav tau siv qee lub sijhawm rau kev cob qhia.

Nkag ob chav seam

Ib ob lossis thim rov qab yog siv rau hauv cov xwm txheej uas yuav tsum tau txiav cov npoo ntawm cov ntaub kom muab khi rau hauv cov seam. Hom no yog siv thaum ua cov txaj pw (pob hauv ncoo, duvet npog), nrog rau cov khoom sewn los ntawm cov ntaub nyias nyias nrog siab flowability (unlined suits).

Nws yog ib qho tsim nyog yuav tsum tau muab cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov khoom kom qhov tsis ncaj ncees lawm ntawm ob lub canvases raug coj mus rau sab hauv. Ua tib zoo ua raws li cov ntaub so ntswg. Kauj ruam rov qab los ntawm ntug ntawm lub canvas peb millimeters. Tam sim no baste cov ntaub siv lub "pem hauv ntej koob" seam rau lub hom phiaj no. Sew ntawm lub tshuab nrog ib lub plooj tsis tu ncua thiab ua tib zoo tshem tawm tag nrho cov basting. Tam sim no koj yuav tsum tau ua tib zoo luas cov ntug txiav kom lub seam thib ob tawm zoo dua.

Tom qab tag nrho cov basting raug tshem tawm thiab cov ntug sib dhos, cov khoom yuav tsum tau muab tig tawm thiab muab tso rau sab pem hauv ntej ntawm qhov teeb meem yog coj mus rau sab hauv. Baste lub seam tam sim no nyob rau sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm, thiab tom qab ntawd xaws dua rau ntawm lub tshuab xaws. Qhov thib ob kab yuav tsum tau indented ntawm ntug ntawm tsib mus rau xya millimeters. Ua tib zoo tshem tawm tag nrhobaste thiab hlau qhov ua tiav seam. Yog li, lwm txoj hlua khi yog suav tias yog. Yuav ua li cas xaws thiab dab tsi cov khoom tau txais nrog nws, peb pom nyob rau hauv nqe lus no. Thiab tam sim no nws tseem yuav qhia meej txog qee qhov kev cai dav dav rau txhua qhov linen seams.

cov lus qhia pab tau

Tsis txhob hnov qab tias cov ntaub ntawv ua ntej siv yuav tsum tau tshuaj xyuas qhov tsis xws luag thiab kos cov chaw tsis haum, yog tias muaj. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov ntaub yuav tsum tau ntxuav thiab ironed. Txoj kev no koj yuav tiv thaiv kev tsis txaus siab los ntawm kev txo qhov loj ntawm cov khoom tiav tom qab ntxuav. Txhawm rau kom cov ntu sib xyaw ua ke ntawm cov teeb meem kom tswj tau txoj haujlwm xav tau thaum ua haujlwm thiab ib daim ntawv raws cov ntu tsis txav mus rau lwm qhov, lawv yuav tsum tau txiav tawm nrog pins hla ntawm ntug ntawm daim ntawv. Cov pins yuav tsum tau muab tso rau hauv cov ntaub so ntswg kom lawv lub taub hau tig mus rau qhov txiav. Tab sis lawv tshem tawm cov pins thaum cheb tawm ntawm cov ntaub ib zaug - raws li qhov xav tau ntawm lawv cov kev siv ploj mus, thiab tam sim ntawd qhia lawv mus rau qhov chaw uas lawv khaws cia mus tas li. Txhua tus pins kuj tau ua tib zoo tshuaj xyuas ua ntej siv, thiab yog tias cov rusty los yog tawg sai sai los ntawm lawv, lawv yuav tsum tau muab pov tseg ruthlessly. Tus qub yuav tso lub cim mus tas li rau ntawm daim ntaub, thaum lub tom kawg yuav tsuas rhuav cov ntaub los yog rub cov xov tawm ntawm nws.

Secrets of zoo seam basting

Basting yuav tsum tau ua tshwj xeeb rau ntawm lub rooj ntawm sab xis mus rau sab laug, siv lub "pem hauv ntej koob" seam. Nyob rau tib lub sij hawm, ob los yog peb stitches tsis ntau tshaj ib centimeter ntev yog strung rau ib rab koob. Thaum kwv yees, koj tuaj yeem tso cai rau me me khiav hauvstitch ntev (ntau dua los yog tsawg dua los ntawm ib millimeter). Lub pob caus thiab ib ntus bartack thaum basting yog muab tso rau ntawm txheej txheej ntawm ntaub. Qhov no yog ua kom koj thiaj li tswj tau qhov fastening ntawm cov xov. Ua ntej fastening cov xov, lawv xyuas seb cov kab yog twisted, thiab cov kev twb kev txuas tsis muaj zog heev los yog, conversely, nruj heev. Txhawm rau ua qhov fastening ib ntus, ib lossis ob lub stitches ntawm qhov ntev me me yog ua los ntawm txoj kev "rov qab koob". Txhawm rau tiv thaiv kom tsis txhob tawg paj, koj yuav tsum tawm ntawm ntug ntawm xov txog ob centimeters ntev. Thaum sewing qhov chaw, sew cov kab tsis raws nraim ntawm basting seam, tab sis ze rau basting stitches nyob rau sab ntawm qhov nyiaj pub dawb. Tom qab ntawd cov basting threads tau yooj yim tshem tawm, thiab cov khoom yuav tsis nqaim, txij li cov seams ntawm basting yog ib txwm me ntsis faib thaum lub sij hawm haum.

Yuav ua li cas ob lub seam yuam kev thiab yuav ua li cas zam lawv

Nyob rau hauv seem no, peb yuav xam seb yuav ua li cas xaws linen seam kom zoo nkauj thiab zoo huv si, thiab yuav tsum tau ua dab tsi kom tsis txhob muaj tej yam yuam kev nyob rau hauv nws tsim.

1. Ntawm ib sab ntawm lub seam, cov ntaub yog stretched, thiab nyob rau lwm yam, nws yog sib sau ua ke. Txhawm rau tiv thaiv qhov tshwm sim no, koj yuav tsum tau muab cov seem thiab chop, muab cov ntaub tag rau ntawm lub rooj. Yog hais tias qhov kev txiav yog sib koom, ces koj yuav tsum tau baste thiab sew nyob rau tib sab ntawm qhov deb ntawm xya mus rau cuaj millimeters ntawm qhov txiav.

2. Xov los yog ntaub protrude los ntawm lub ntsej muag ntawm cov khoom nyob rau hauv lub txuas seam. Xws li qhov tsis xws luag tuaj yeem tshwm sim yog tias kab yog nkhaus, thiab cov qauv ntawm seam dav (los ntawm tsib mus rau xya millimeters) tsis yogtxhawb nqa.

Nws kuj tseem tuaj yeem tshwm sim los ntawm qhov tsis txaus lossis qhov tsis sib xws ntawm kev txiav seam nyiaj tom qab thawj plooj, uas yuav tsum nyob nruab nrab ntawm peb thiab plaub millimeters.

3. Ib daim ntawv folds nyob rau hauv lub quav ntawm lub puab seam. Qhov wrinkle no tuaj yeem tshwm sim yog tias qhov pib plooj tsis haum nrog lub crease ntawm inseam.

Nyob rau hauv tsab xov xwm no, peb saib dab tsi linen seam yuav ua tau - yuav ua li cas xaws nrog ib tug xaws seam thiab nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv twg nws yog zoo dua mus siv ib tug ob. Raws li nws tau muab tawm, ua cov seams hauv tsev tsis yog qhov nyuaj. Txhua yam lawv xav tau yog me ntsis huv si.