Cov txheej txheem:

Yuav ua li cas thiaj li ua cov pob khawm manually: cov lus qhia ib kauj ruam
Yuav ua li cas thiaj li ua cov pob khawm manually: cov lus qhia ib kauj ruam
Anonim

Cov ntsiab lus yog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm cov duab, thiab lawv yuav tsum tau muab tsis muaj kev saib xyuas tsawg dua thaum txiav cov khaub ncaws ntau dua li kev xaiv ntawm cov ntaub, nws cov xim, style thiab clarity ntawm seams. Yog li ntawd, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb rau beginner tailors kom paub cov hom ntawm buttonholes thiab yuav ua li cas kom lawv koj tus kheej. Yog tias koj ua raws li cov lus qhia, nws tsis nyuaj heev. Nyob rau hauv tsab xov xwm no, peb yuav saib yuav ua li cas ua buttonholes manually ntawm lub tshuab ntaus ntawv thiab nrog ib rab koob thiab xov.

Nyob lub voj voog

Nyob rau hauv tag nrho, muaj 5 hom voj voog hauv cov khaub ncaws hnav. Nov yog:

  • stitched buttonholes;
  • loops los ntawm tucked qaum;
  • ncaj ncaj ntaub khawm khawm;
  • air;
  • tig.

Qhov chaw ntawm cov hlua khi ntawm cov ntaub tuaj yeem sib txawv: transverse, lobar lossis oblique. Tab sis txoj kev xaws nws tus kheej tsis muaj qhov sib txawv.

Sewn buttonholes

hom khawm qhov no tuaj yeem ua los ntawm tes. Thiab koj tuaj yeem siv lub tshuab xaws, xaiv rau qhov nohom tshwj xeeb. Lub hom phiaj ntawm overcasting yog los tiv thaiv cov ntaub los ntawm fraying ntawm lub pob qhov. Koj tuaj yeem ua cov voj voog xws li ob qho tib si hauv tib xim nrog cov khoom, thiab sib piv. Nws nyob ntawm lub tswv yim ntawm cov khoom ua. Yog li cas koj ua koj tus kheej lub pob khawm ntawm tes?

Ua ntej, koj yuav tsum kos cov chaw ntawm kev txiav nrog chalk lossis ib qho cim tshwj xeeb, uas tom qab ntawd ploj tag. Nws yog ib qho tsim nyog yuav tau kos rau sab pem hauv ntej ntawm cov khoom yav tom ntej. Koj yuav tsum pib thiab ua tiav sewing lub voj nrog xov nrog bartacks. Lawv pom meej hauv daim duab hauv qab no.

Bartacks ntawm overcast buttonhole
Bartacks ntawm overcast buttonhole

Koj yuav tsum ua bartacks li no: ob peb txawm stitches rau pem hauv ntej, ces rov qab mus rau pem hauv ntej.

Nws tsis yog qhov tsim nyog los sheathe qhov chaw ntawm cov khoom uas lub qhov yuav tom qab ua, tawm hauv qhov sib txawv me me. Yog li cov xov uas peb overcast lub voj yuav nyob twj ywm. Overcast thawj ib sab, thiab ces lwm yam.

Tab sis koj tsis tuaj yeem ua tsis tau zoo txawm tias overcast buttonhole los ntawm tes. Yog li ntawd, cov txheej txheem ntawm phau ntawv yog cuam tshuam tsuas yog rau cov needlewomen uas tsis muaj tshuab xaws. Txawm li cas los xij, nyob rau hauv lub xub ntiag ntawm qhov txuj ci tseem ceeb ntawm thev naus laus zis, uas pab txhawb rau tus neeg txiav txim siab ua haujlwm, cov txheej txheem yuav tsis txawv hauv paus. Cov loops yuav tsuas ua smoother thiab neater. Txawm li cas los xij, tseem, cia peb ua tib zoo saib yuav ua li cas ua cov pob khawm rau cov nyees khawm nrog koj tus kheej tes siv lub tshuab xaws.

Ua ntej, dua, peb khij txhua yam nrog chalk (nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas nws yuav tsum yog ib txwm ntse) los yog tus cim ntawm sab xis ntawm cov khaub ncaws, ris tsho hauv qab, thiab lwm yam, raws li qhov loj ntawm lub pob. Qhov thib ob yog rau nruabib qho tshwj xeeb ko taw ntawm lub tshuab, uas yog tsim tshwj xeeb rau xaws buttonholes. Nws zoo li ib yam li hauv qab no.

Buttonhole ko taw
Buttonhole ko taw

Tom ntej, xaiv thiab teeb tsa hom xav tau, tsis txhob hnov qab ua ntej xaiv hom voj peb xav tau.

Tom qab stitching, ua tib zoo txiav qhov nruab nrab ntawm cov stitches nrog cov hniav nyias. Txhua yam, lub voj swept yog npaj txhij.

Loops ntawm darted cord

Qhov no yog li cas muag heev thiab airy lawv saib.

Drawstring loops
Drawstring loops

Yuav ua li cas thiaj ua tau pob khawm ntawm tes? Nws tsis yog qhov nyuaj heev, thiab txawm tias cov kws tshaj lij kev hnav khaub ncaws tuaj yeem ua tau.

Yuav ua kom lub kauj tsheb (qhov no yog lub npe thib ob ntawm lub voj no), koj yuav tsum tau txiav tawm ib daim ntaub ntawm oblique (5 degrees), qhov dav ntawm qhov yuav yog 3 cm. ntawm qhov loj me. Lub voj yuav tsum tau sewn nrog stitches ntawm kwv yees li 1.5 hli, tsis muaj ntxiv. Cov stitches loj yuav ua rau nws nyuaj rau tig lub kauj log tom qab. Lub sawb yuav tsum zoo li lub funnel: thaum xub thawj me ntsis nqaim, thiab ces wider. Tom qab lub voj voog yav tom ntej yog stitched, cov ntaub ntau dhau ntawm lub seam yuav tsum tau ua tib zoo txiav tawm. Qhov no yuav pab koj tig lub kauj tsheb tawm yooj yim thiab nws yuav nyob ncaj.

Koj tuaj yeem tig lub voj nrog ib rab koob, khi nws rau ntawm cov xov ntxiv thiab thawb nws sab hauv nrog qhov kawg. Siv lub thimble, nws yuav tiv thaiv koj cov ntiv tes los ntawm kev raug mob.

Tom qab cov hlua tau npaj lawm, nws yuav tsum tau ironed, txuas nrog tus pin rau lub rooj tsav hlau ntawm ib kawg. Lub log tsis tas yuav tsum tau ironed, tab sis tsuas yog me ntsis ironed, tuav cov hlau tsis hnyav, vim cov khoomyuav tsum nyob puag ncig, tsis tiaj tus.

Tam sim no lub voj los ntawm txoj hlua khi tuaj yeem sewn rau peb cov khoom.

Loop ntawm ib txoj hlua ncaj nraim

Loops nyob rau hauv ncaj ncaj ntaub
Loops nyob rau hauv ncaj ncaj ntaub

Cia peb saib cov lus qhia yuav ua li cas ua cov pob khawm manually.

Rau lub pob khawm no, ib txoj hlua 3.5 hli dav yog txiav tawm, thiab nws qhov ntev yuav yog 4 cm ntxiv rau ob lub pob taub. Xws li ib tug strip yog folded nyob rau hauv ib nrab sab hauv, sab hauv tawm, thiab ces lub folded npoo yog sewn ua ke. Los ntawm ntug koj yuav tsum rov qab 1 mm. Tom ntej no, peb quav lub strip nyob rau hauv ib nrab, tab sis twb hla nws, tsim ib daim duab peb sab ntawm lub quav, thiab peb mus hla nws nrog ib tug transverse kab. Peb khoov qhov kawg. Tam sim no lub voj tuaj yeem txuas rau ntawm daim ntaub. Sib npaug qhov kawg. Peb txuas mus rau sab pem hauv ntej ntawm qhov deb ntawm 4-6 mm los ntawm kev txiav ntawm qhov khoom. Nws muaj peev xwm ua tiav cov npoo ntawm lub fastener no nrog kev xaiv lossis tig.

Air loops

Lawv yog tsim los ntawm cov xov. Nws tuaj yeem yog paj ntaub, paj ntaub, thiab lwm yam. Nws tag nrho yog nyob ntawm seb puas muaj qhov zais zais los yog tsis, txawm tias nws yog qhov ci tiav lossis lub voj tsis tu ncua, thiab tseem nyob ntawm qhov tuab ntawm cov ntaub. Piv txwv li, ntawm cov ntaub nyias nyias, lwm cov loops tuaj yeem saib hnyav thiab ntxhib, thaum nyias airy sawv daws yuav yog. Yog li cas koj ua buttonholes los ntawm tes?

Cua voj
Cua voj

Lub ntsiab ntawm kev ua haujlwm yog ua ib lub voj ntawm ob peb txheej ntawm cov xov, thiab tom qab ntawd txiav nws. Txoj kab uas hla ntawm lub pob khawm yuav tsum yog 1-2 hli dav dua lub pob. Yuav tsum muaj pes tsawg arcs rau lub voj no, koj yuav tsum tau saib raws li qhov tuab ntawm cov xov. Rau qee qhov, 3-4 yog txaus, thiab rau cov ntaub nyias nyias, tej zaum 12 tsis yogtxaus.

Buttonhole kev xaiv tuaj yeem sib txawv. Piv txwv li, ib tug tatting seam, thaum txhua yam yog overcast nrog ib tug zoo tib yam buttonhole seam, tab sis cov knots yog ua nyob rau hauv pem hauv ntej los yog nyob rau hauv lub rov qab nyob rau hauv ib tug checkerboard qauv. Ib qho gedebo seam kuj haum. Ua tsaug rau qhov no tiav, ib tug tav yog tsim rau ntawm lub voj raws tag nrho ntev. Kev kos npe yuav tsum tau ua los ntawm qhov tsis ncaj ncees lawm. Lub "ob lub voj" stitch kuj zoo haum rau xaws cua loops. Nws tseem yuav tsum tau ua los ntawm sab hauv tawm. Vim tias rab koob raug thawb rau hauv lub voj tsis yog ib zaug, tab sis ob zaug, lub seam yog nruj heev.

Kev sib tw

Cov voj voog no nyuaj ua. Tab sis muaj ib qho kev ua kom yuam kev me me uas yuav pab ua kom txoj haujlwm ntawm cov tailors yooj yim dua. Txhawm rau kom ntseeg tau tias cov ntaub tsis tawg thiab raug cim kom raug, daim kab xev npog yuav tsum tau siv.

Yuav ua li cas thiaj ua cov pob khawm los ntawm tes: sewing buttonhole kauj ruam yog kauj ruam:

  1. Nws yog qhov tsim nyog los txiav txim siab seb lub voj voog yuav ntev npaum li cas. Ua li no, peb siv cov ntaub ntawv ntawm txoj kab uas hla thiab tuab ntawm lub pob, ntxiv 3-6 hli ntawm no. Qhov dav ntawm lub voj nws tus kheej yog 6 hli. Peb kos ib lub voj ntawm daim ntawv, muab cov yas nyias nyias thiab gluing nws nrog daim kab xev. Rau txhua lub voj voog, koj yuav tsum tau ua ib daim kab xev nplaum.
  2. Peb ua tib zoo hla cov thav ntawv uas twb tau ua tiav lawm nrog cov hlua khi ntev ntawm 1 hli. Tsis tas li ntawd, rau txhua lub voj voog, koj yuav tsum npaj koj tus kheej tig ntsej muag nrog qhov dav ntawm 6.5 hli. Peb pin lub ntsej muag nrog kev ruaj ntseg pins mus rau pem hauv ntej ntawm lub hlaws, qhov twg lub voj yog npaj. Tam sim no koj yuav tsum tau nteg ob qho tib si seams los ntawm tsis ncaj ncees lawm sab, uas yuav raws nraim phim rau pem hauv ntej sawv daws yuav. Pib thiab xaus ntawm tag nrho cov seamstsuas yog hauv cov ces kaum.
  3. Ua tib zoo txiav los ntawm lub ntsej muag ua ntej, thiab tom qab ntawd lub rooj tsavxwm nws tus kheej thiab tig cov npoo ntawm lub ntsej muag mus rau sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm. Peb sew tag nrho cov npoo nrog bartack stitches.
  4. Peb tack lub nqa mus rau lub rooj tsavxwm, ua tiav cov txheej txheem nrog pins. Ua tib zoo thiab ua tib zoo muab cov nplaum nplaum rau ntawm qhov chaw swept thiab sew. Daim kab xev nplaum tuaj yeem raug tshem tawm, lub voj yog npaj.
  5. Overstitched loops
    Overstitched loops

Nws yuav tsum tau muab sau tseg tias cov loops yog siv, raws li txoj cai, nyob rau hauv tus txheej txheem ntawm ua tuab txheej tsoos tsho xws li tsho loj.

Peb kawm cov hauv paus ntawm yuav ua li cas ua cov pob khawm ntawm tes. Tab sis kev xaws yog ib txoj kev muaj tswv yim. Thiab fantasy nyob deb ntawm qhov chaw kawg ntawm no. Nws yog qhov tshwj xeeb tshaj yog xav thiab ua haujlwm ntawm yuav ua li cas kho kom zoo nkauj ntawm tag nrho cov khoom tawm ntawm cov fasteners, thiab, ntawm chav kawm, zoo siab hnav cov khoom qub no.

Pom zoo: