Sew lub tiab ncaj: ntsuas, txiav, sib dhos, daim duab

2024 Tus sau: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2024-02-26 05:10

Txawm hais tias qhov ua tau zoo ntawm ntau hom trousers thiab ris ntauv txhav, ntau tus poj niam tseem nyiam tiab. Nws yog poj niam thiab zoo nkauj. Kev xaws ib lub tiab ncaj tsis yog qhov nyuaj heev. Tej zaum qhov no yog ib qho ntawm cov kev xaiv uas yuav haum txawm tias beginner dressmakers. Peb muab cov lus piav qhia ntxaws txog hom koob no.

Nws pib nrog kev ntsuas

Txij thaum lub sijhawm tsuas muaj ib daim ntaub ntawm tes, mus txog rau lub sijhawm thaum nws hloov mus ua qhov zoo nkauj elegant, tsuas muaj ob theem tseem ceeb - kev tsim qauv thiab kev xaws. Nws tsis nyob ntawm seb hom qauv. Txhawm rau sew ib daim tiab ncaj, koj tsis tas yuav muaj daim duab kos. Qee zaum koj tuaj yeem kos ncaj qha rau ntawm daim ntaub, tab sis qhov no yuav tsum muaj kev paub.

Nyob hauv kev tsim kho, nws yog kev cai siv cov cim kwv yees uas tso cai rau koj hloov cov kab thiab cov ntsiab lus sib xws rau daim duab rau ntawv.

Rau qhov ntsuas qhov tseeb ntawm lub duav, koj yuav tsum tau khi ib txoj hlua khi. Qhov no tseem ceeb tshwj xeeb tshaj yog tias lub tiab tsis sewn rau koj tus kheej. Visually, lub duav kab tsis yog ib txwm pom. Tus neeg nws tus kheej tuaj yeem kho lub braid mus rau theem uas nws yooj yim rau nws. Tsis tas li ntawd, anatomicalTxhua tus qauv yog tus kheej.

Qhov zoo tshaj plaws, lub duav kab khiav kab rov tav. Yog tias ib ceg ntev dua thiab lwm qhov luv dua, ces qhov ntev ntawm ob sab ntawm cov khoom sewn yuav txawv. Yog li ntawd, los ntawm kev ua cov lus qhia me me rau koj tus kheej, nws yooj yim dua los sau cov ntaub ntawv raug thiab tsim cov qauv uas haum rau ib qho duab.

Yam koj xav tau rau kev ua haujlwm

Ua ntej koj pib ua lag luam, koj yuav tsum npaj thiab yuav txhua yam koj xav tau rau kev ua haujlwm. Koj tuaj yeem xaws tiab ncaj ncaj sai yog tias muaj tag nrho cov khoom siv. Ib hnub txaus kom muaj cov khoom tiav ntawm tes.

Cov ntaub tuaj yeem xaiv ntawm koj qhov kev txiav txim siab lossis suav nrog lub sijhawm xyoo. Koj tseem yuav xav tau cov xov hauv cov xim ntawm cov ntaub, ib daim kab xev centimeter, dublerin, pins, tus pas ntsuas, hlau, rab koob thiab xov ntawm cov xim sib txawv rau basting. Kuj tailor's chalk los yog xab npum, ntawv thiab xaum. Yuav kom xaws cov khoom, koj xav tau ib lub tshuab thiab ib tug overlock rau ua nyob rau hauv seams. Qee lub sij hawm ua cov ntu ua tiav hauv zigzag, tab sis tsis yog txhua tus craftswomen pom zoo qhov no.

Cov ntaub ntawv ntsuas kom raug

Thaum tus qauv tiav yog siv rau ntawm cov ntaub, cov khoom siv yog folded hauv ib nrab. Yog li ntawd, daim duab yog ua tiav ntawm ib nrab ntawm daim duab. Qhov ntau thiab tsawg koj xav tau:

• NTAWM - lub duav ncig. Ntsuas ib ncig ntawm lub cev kab rov tav ntawm ib lub pob knotted.
• OB - lub girth ntawm lub duav yog ntsuas ntawm cov ntsiab lus convex ntawm lub pob tw thiab ncej puab, hla lub plab. Daim kab xev ntsuas yuav tsum khiav kab rov tav.
• CI - rau kev xaws txhua yam, koj yuav tsum qhia nws qhov ntev. Hauv qhov no, nws yuav yog qhov ntev ntawm daim tiab. Nws yog ntsuas los ntawm lub duavnyob rau ntawm kab mus rau theem uas lub hauv qab ntawm daim tiab yog npaj.

Kev ntsuas lub duav thiab lub duav tau muab faib ua 4. Daim duab uas tau tshwm sim yuav raug siv rau hauv kev tsim cov duab kos. Yog hais tias cov ntaub tsis stretchy, ces koj yuav tsum tau ntxiv 2-4 cm rau ib tug xoob haum.

Ua haujlwm nrog kos duab

Nws yooj yim ua txhua yam ntawm lub rooj dav kom tus qauv haum rau nws. Yog tias tsis muaj cov rooj tog zoo li no, koj tuaj yeem zaum hauv pem teb. Muaj cov lus qhia yuav ua li cas xaws ib tiab ncaj rau cov pib tshiab. Nws yog qhov zoo dua tsis nco lawv. Cov kws tshaj lij feem ntau tsis siv lawv vim tias lawv cov txuj ci tau txais txiaj ntsig. Thiab rau cov pib tshiab, nws zoo dua los ua lawv txhua tus, yog li tsis txhob rov ua haujlwm tom qab.

Daim ntawv txiav yuav tsum zoo li lub duab plaub nrog ob sab:

• CI + 10 cm.
• POB (Hip circumference) + 10 cm.

Los ntawm sab saum toj ntawm ntug koj yuav tsum tau nqis rov qab 5 cm thiab muab ib qho chaw. Los ntawm nws, kos ib kab kab rov tav hla tag nrho daim ntawv. Qhov no yog lub duav. Txhua qhov ntsuas yuav tsum tau kos npe. Los ntawm cov cim taw qhia hauv qab, muab tso rau lwm qhov 18 cm thiab muab lub cim thib ob. Los ntawm nws, koj kuj yuav tsum tau kos ib kab kab rov tav hla tag nrho daim ntawv. Nov yog kab hip.

Los ntawm thawj nqe lus, koj yuav tsum ncua CI thiab muab lub cim thib peb. Tom qab ntawd rov kos ib kab kab rov tav. Qhov no yog hauv qab ntawm cov khoom. Txhawm rau kom tsis txhob ntxhov siab, cov kab tuaj yeem kos npe, raws li hauv daim duab hauv qab no.

Ua haujlwm ntawm proportions

Tus tib neeg daim duab yog voluminous. Yog li ntawd, cov ntaub ntawv yuav tsum raug xa mus rau daim ntawv kom cov khoom zaum zoo tom qab sib dhos thiab txiav. Los ntawm thawj lub siab mus rau sab xis, koj yuav tsum tau ncua POB,muab lub cim thib plaub thiab txo txoj kab ncaj nraim los ntawm nws los ntawm LB thiab LN.

Los ntawm thawj lub ntsiab lus, koj kuj yuav tsum ncua OB/4, muab lub cim thib tsib. Los ntawm nws dua kos ib txoj kab ncaj nraim los ntawm LB thiab LN. Cov kab tau txais yuav tsum tau kos npe kom yooj yim. Ib tug nyob rau hauv nruab nrab sib raug mus rau sab seam, thiab ib tug uas tig tawm rau sab xis yog lub yav tom ntej seam nyob rau sab nraum qab ntawm lub txee.

Tsim Darts

Yog tias koj tsis rub, tej zaum koj yuav xav txog yuav ua li cas xaws tiab ncaj nrog ib txoj hlua elastic. Tom qab ntawd cov khoom yuav tsis haum snugly ntawm daim duab, tab sis folds yuav tshwm rau saum. Yog tias tus qauv muab kev nruj nruj, tom qab ntawd los ntawm midline raws LT, koj yuav tsum tau tso tseg 3 cm rau sab xis thiab sab laug thiab txuas lawv hauv qab tus kav mus rau qhov chaw nruab nrab ntawm LB. Yog li ntawd tsis muaj cov ces kaum ntse ntawm lub duav, cov kab ncaj yuav tsum tau me ntsis sib npaug.

Nws twb paub meej nyob rau hauv daim duab uas qhov no yog ib feem ntawm lub hauv ntej thiab nram qab ib nrab ntawm cov khoom, uas yuav tsum tau tsim tucks. Lawv yuav nyob tom qab thiab pem hauv ntej.

Los ntawm peb qhov taw qhia thawj zaug mus rau sab xis raws LT, koj yuav tsum tau tso tseg 10 cm thiab muab lwm lub cim. Los ntawm nws peb pw 7 cm, thiab sab xis thiab sab laug - 1 cm txhua, peb txuas tag nrho cov ntsiab lus tshiab. Pem hauv ntej darts yog npaj txhij. Qee zaum lawv tsis tau ua rau pem hauv ntej, tab sis qhov no tsis haum rau tag nrho cov ntaub.

Kev kos duab tsis yooj yim rau txhua tus. Tias yog vim li cas hauv tsab xov xwm no cov npe ntawm cov ntsiab lus thiab kab raug txo kom tsawg. Feem ntau cov ntaub ntawv loj ua rau nws nyuajtxheej txheem ua haujlwm. Txhawm rau kom tsis txhob muaj kev ntxhov siab, peb siv cov ntsiab lus yooj yim tshaj plaws rau kev tsim kho. Los ntawm nruab nrab kab perpendicular raws LT, 10 cm yuav tsum tau muab tso rau sab xis, los ntawm qhov tau txais taw tes, txo ib txoj kab ncaj nraim ntsuas 14-15 cm down, qhov no yog qhov ntev ntawm lub nraub qaum. Nws qhov dav yog xam tus kheej. Txhawm rau ua qhov no, siv tus qauv:

POB - Sweat - 2 cm (pem hauv ntej undercut) - 6 cm (sab undercut).

Daim duab tau muab faib los ntawm 2. Tus nqi no yog npaj rau sab xis thiab sab laug. Lawv yuav tsum tau cim nrog cov dots uas txuas nrog rau qhov kawg ntawm qhov kev ncua yav dhau los, qhov ntev yog 15 cm.

Tus qauv npaj txhij. Yog tias koj ua haujlwm kom zoo, ces 4 tucks tuaj yeem ua rau tom qab ib nrab, tab sis qhov no yog qhov txaus rau tus pib. Cov qauv tuaj yeem txiav tawm.

Cov ntaub yuav tsum tau npaj

Qhov nyuaj tshaj dhau lawm. Tam sim no koj tuaj yeem txiav. Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb heev los npaj cov ntaub so ntswg ua ntej cov txheej txheem no. Nws yuav tsum tau ironed thiab steamed zoo, vim hais tias ib co hom ntawm fabrics yuav shrinkage mus txog 10 cm. Yog hais tias koj xub txiav cov khoom thiab ces hlau cov seams, txiav yuav txo qhov luaj li cas. Ces daim tiab yuav tau muab rau ib tug.

Thaum cov ntaub yog ironed mus rau qhov siab tshaj plaws, txhua yam tsis xws luag hauv cov ntaub yuav tshwm sim ntawm nws. Thaum txiav, koj tuaj yeem hla lawv, tab sis ntawm cov khoom tiav koj tsis tuaj yeem ua dab tsi nrog lawv. Peb tseem xav txog yuav ua li cas xaws tiab ncaj nrog koj tus kheej tes.

Nws yog lub sijhawm txiav

Kom cov khoom tiav tsis txhob warp,txiav yuav tsum tau ua kom raug. Hauv kev ua haujlwm, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas yuav tsum xav txog cov kev taw qhia ntawm cov xov sib koom. Qee cov ntaub stretch raws nws, lwm tus - raws li weft. Yog tias qhov yuam kev tsis tuaj yeem pom tam sim ntawd, tom qab thawj zaug ntxuav nws yuav pom sai sai.

Nws kuj tsim nyog them nqi rau seb puas muaj pawg lossis qauv ntawm cov ntaub. Velvet yuav tsum tau txiav rau tib qho kev coj ua kom ib feem ntawm cov khoom tsis tsaus dua li lwm qhov.

Cov khoom feem ntau yog folded nrog rau pem hauv ntej sab hauv, cov npoo yog ua ke. Nws yog qhov yooj yim dua rau sew ib daim tiab ncaj tsis muaj qhov thiab txiav. Cia peb xav txog qhov kev xaiv no. Lub nraub qaum tuaj yeem ua los ntawm ob ntu, thiab pem hauv ntej yuav ruaj khov. Nyob rau hauv no variant, tus qauv nyob rau hauv pem hauv ntej ntawm nruab nrab yog muab tso rau hauv lub quav, thiab cov qauv ntawm lub nraub qaum yog muab tso rau ntawm ntug. Tom qab ntawd yuav muaj ib lub seam nyob rau hauv lub nraub qaum hauv nruab nrab. Yog tias koj tsis xav kom nws nyob ntawd, tom qab ntawd cov ntaub rau kev txiav yuav tsum tau folded thiaj li tau txais ob folds. Tom qab ntawd tsuas muaj ob ntu ntawm kev ua haujlwm.

Koj yuav tsum nco ntsoov txog kev taw qhia ntawm cov xov sib koom (DN). Koj tuaj yeem xaws ib tiab ncaj ntawm ib qho qauv ntawm ib phau ntawv xov xwm. Thaum txhais nws rau hauv ntawv, ib tug yuav tsum tsis txhob hnov qab txog cov xub uas qhia cov kev taw qhia ntawm DN.

Cov duab kos yog nteg tawm ntawm cov ntaub thiab pinned nrog pins nyob ib ncig ntawm ib puag ncig. Tam sim no nws tuaj yeem ua voj voog. Tom ntej no, koj yuav tsum kos cov nyiaj pub dawb. Hauv qab koj yuav tsum tau ntxiv 4 cm, nyob rau sab saum toj - 1 cm, nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm lub nraub qaum 2 cm, thiab nyob rau sab 1 cm rau kev ywj pheej ntawm haum + 2 cm nyiaj pub dawb. Raws li koj tau pom, nws yuav tsis yooj yim heev rau sew ib tiab ncaj tsis muaj qauv nrog koj tus kheej tes.

Darts ntawm cov ntaub tsuas yog pauv, tab sis tsis txiav tawm. Txoj siv tawv tuaj yeem txiav ncaj qha rau ntawm daim ntaub. Nyob rau hauv ib qho chaw dawb, koj yuav tsum tau teem ib sab POT + 10 cm nyob rau hauv ntev thiab 8 cm nyob rau hauvdav. Tib qhov kev nthuav dav yuav tsum raug txiav tawm ntawm lub duav. Lawv yuav tsum tau txiav tawm.

Cov khoom txiav yuav tsum tau sau. Nws yog ib advisable mus ua tucks ua ntej no, thiaj li tsis rov qab mus rau lawv. Lawv yuav tsum tau muab tais nrog sab xis sab hauv thiab txiav tawm nrog ob peb pins kom lawv tsis txav, bast thiab plooj. Tshem tawm cov basting thiab hlau lawv mus rau sab seams.

Yog tias daim tiab muaj ib txoj hlua ntawm sab nraub qaum, ces lub zipper tuaj yeem muab tso rau hauv. Yog tias koj xav tau xaws ib lub tiab ncaj nrog tsuas yog sab seams, ces koj yuav tsum tau tawm ib qho chaw rau lub zipper ntawm sab raws qhov ntev ntawm lub fastener. Sweep lub tiab thiab nqa tawm thawj qhov haum. Qee lub sij hawm haum yuav ua tau tedious heev. Nyob rau theem no, koj tuaj yeem pom qhov twg koj yuav tsum khaws cov ntaub ntxiv, qhov twg tso tawm. Yog tias cov khoom haum zoo rau ntawm daim duab, cov seams tuaj yeem sewn, tawm hauv ib seem rau zipper.

Kev siv txoj siv sia

Ib feem ntawm txoj siv tawv ua los ntawm cov ntaub thiab dublerin yuav tsum tau muab khi ua ke nrog cov hlau kub. Nws raug nquahu kom siv nws rau ob peb feeb, thiab tom qab ntawd txav mus rau lwm qhov chaw. Nrog stroking txav, lub dublerin tuaj yeem ncab lossis txav mus. Tom ntej no, quav txoj siv nyob rau hauv ib nrab ntawm qhov ntev thiab hlau nws.

Nyob rau theem no, koj yuav tsum tau ua txhua yam hauv cov seams thiab xaws hauv zipper. Tam sim no txoj siv yuav tsum tau pinned rau daim tiab nrog pins thiab sewn rau.

Hauv qab ntawm cov khoom koj yuav tsum tau khoov thiab maj mam hlau. Lub hem yog tes-sewn nrog ib tug zais seam. Koob punctures yuav tsum tsis txhob pom los ntawm pem hauv ntej. Ntawm ntug ntawm txoj siv, koj yuav tsum tau ua ib lub voj thiab xaws rau ntawm lub pob lossis nuv.

Thaum koj tau dai ntawm txoj haujlwm no, koj tuaj yeem ua taupib kawm yuav ua li cas xaws tiab ncaj tsis muaj qauv. Tom qab ntawd cov duab kos yuav tsum tau siv ncaj qha rau cov ntaub. Txhua kauj ruam tom ntej yuav zoo ib yam.