Cov txheej txheem:

Flat seam (cover stitch): piav qhia, lub hom phiaj. Dab tsi yog qhov txawv ntawm stitcher thiab ntaub pua plag?
Flat seam (cover stitch): piav qhia, lub hom phiaj. Dab tsi yog qhov txawv ntawm stitcher thiab ntaub pua plag?
Anonim

Ib qho ntawm cov seams tseem ceeb siv los zom thiab txheej txheem knitwear cov ntsiab lus suav hais tias yog lub tiaj tus, lossis, raws li nws tseem hu ua, npog plooj. Nws yog tus cwj pwm los ntawm atypical weave ntawm threads, vim hais tias cov kab yog elastic. Nws muaj peev xwm tiv taus tensile hnyav yam tsis muaj tearing lossis deformation ntawm cov ntaub. Dab tsi yog lwm qhov zoo ntawm lub plooj tiaj tus, nws zoo li cas thiab hom tshuab xaws dab tsi muaj peev xwm ua tau xws li stitches? Koj yuav kawm txog txhua yam no los ntawm kab lus.

tiaj seam
tiaj seam

Zoo

Nws muaj peev xwm txawm tias cov neeg nyob deb ntawm kev xaws khaub ncaws tau pom cov stitches nteg rau saum cov ntaub. Outwardly, lawv zoo ib yam li cov khoom siv kho kom zoo nkauj, tab sis lawv muaj txiaj ntsig thiab lub hom phiaj loj dua. Feem ntau lawv pom nyob rau hauv cov kis las thiab cov menyuam yaus cov khaub ncaws. Rau cov neeg uas tsis paub yuav ua li casxws li cov ntaub tiav hu ua, peb maj nrawm qhia rau koj tias qhov no yog lub tiaj tiaj tiaj tiaj.

Visually, nws zoo li zigzag plooj, tab sis ntau nyuaj rau ua vim nws edging nrog luv luv stitches ntawm ob sab thiab ib tug txuas nruab nrab seam. Nyob rau hauv cov cav tov uas nteg ib tug xws li kab, tsis muaj kev paub shuttle, nws yog hloov los ntawm qis loopers. Thaum threads tau noj thaum lub sij hawm xaws, lawv tsim loops uas intertwined nrog ib leeg zoo li ib tug elastic pigtail. Qhov tseeb, lub tiaj seam yog ib qho nyuaj version ntawm overlock stitching. Nws tuaj yeem tso tsis tau tsuas yog raws ntug ntawm cov khoom, tab sis nyob qhov twg.

Tshwj xeeb npog stitch tshuab xaws yog nruab nrog ob lossis peb koob, lawv muaj kev ua haujlwm ntawm kev kho qhov dav thiab ntev ntawm lub plooj, vim muaj ntau qhov kev hloov kho ntawm lub tiaj tiaj.

tiaj seam ntawm ntaub pua plag
tiaj seam ntawm ntaub pua plag

Ntse

Cov yam ntxwv tshwj xeeb tshaj plaws ntawm kev piav qhia hom seam yog qhov tseeb hauv nws qhov elasticity. Lub tiaj seam tuaj yeem tsim los ntawm ntau hom tshuab - npog stitches, coverlocks thiab overlocks. Txhua tus ntawm lawv muaj nws qhov zoo thiab qhov tsis zoo, uas yuav tau tham tom qab.

Cov npog plooj kuj nthuav vim nws nteg ntawm ntaub. Txhawm rau kom ua tiav qhov zoo elasticity, lub tshuab tuaj yeem zawm lossis ncab (nyob ntawm qhov chaw) cov khoom noj thaum txhua lub plooj tom qab txhua kauj ruam. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov tshuab xaws no kuj muaj cov xov nro tshwj xeeb: tsis zoo li shuttle mechanisms, lub npog stitch tshuab xaws ua stitches."so". Yielding rau nro nyob rau hauv cov khoom tiav, cov loops yog stretched, tab sis tsis torn, uas ua kom lub siab ncaj ncees ntawm knitted ntaub. Cov seams ntawm ob daim yuav sewn yog ntug rau ntug es tsis overlapping flush.

npog plooj
npog plooj

siv qhov twg

Lub hom phiaj tseem ceeb ntawm cov cav tov nrog kev ua haujlwm ntawm kev muab cov seam tiaj tus yog kev ua thiab xaws ntawm knitwear, feem ntau yog sportswear. Cov khoom zoo li no yog tsim los ntawm cov khoom tshwj xeeb ntawm cov ntaub, uas yog tus cwj pwm los ntawm kev nce elasticity, muaj stretch fibers, nyob rau hauv tas li ntawd, lawv yuav tsum tau nce loads thaum siv. Knitwear tsis yog ib txoj haujlwm yooj yim, tab sis siv lub tshuab xaws ua kom yooj yim dua.

Lwm qhov txiaj ntsig tseem ceeb ntawm xws li seam yog qhov tsis muaj ntug tawm saum npoo ntawm cov ntaub. Qhov no yog ib qho ntxiv ntxiv rau cov khaub ncaws ncaws pob thiab cov khaub ncaws menyuam yaus, vim tias qhov tsis muaj kev pab txo qis kev raug mob thiab khaus tawv nqaij.

dab tsi yog ntaub pua plag
dab tsi yog ntaub pua plag

Cov ntaub twg tuaj yeem xaws nrog lub tshuab xaws?

Raws li nws tau paub meej los ntawm ntu dhau los, cov khoom tseem ceeb uas koj tuaj yeem ua rau lub tiaj tiaj ntawm lub npog npog lossis lub tshuab xaws yog knitwear. Txawm li cas los xij, qhov kev txhais no suav nrog ntau hom ntaub. Ntawm lawv tsis yog tsuas yog ib txwm nyias T-shirt knitwear, tab sis kuj muaj ob txoj xov, interlock, txias, velsoft, viscose, stretch satin, tshuab knitted fabrics thiab ntau lwm tus.

rau cov ntaub stretchib lub tiaj seam yog txoj hauv kev tseem ceeb los ua cov khoom ntawm lawv. Nws yog tsim rau overcasting (caj dab, hnab tshos, lub tes tsho thiab txiav) los yog seaming ib tug neeg qhov chaw, xaws ntawm lub ntsiab, nrog rau cov hniav zoo nkauj, xws li elastic bands, appliqués thiab daim ntawv lo.

Tiav nrog hom seam ntawm lwm hom ntaub los ua ib qho surprise rau ntau. Thaum yuav cov ntaub pua plag, nws yog dab tsi, ntau tus tsis tas yuav nkag siab tam sim ntawd. Txawm li cas los xij, nws siv tsis txwv rau kev xaws knitwear. Cov tshuab xaws no yog programmed nrog ntau tus stitches uas tuaj yeem ua tiav zoo kawg nkaus stitches, pab tau rau kev ua quilting lossis patchwork. Lawv kuj tseem siv tau rau kev xaws ntawm lace lossis elastic bands. Txawm li cas los xij, cov kws paub txog kev hnav khaub ncaws tsis pom zoo kom xaws cov ntaub tuab tuab heev thiab tuab ua ke - cov seam yuav zoo li ntxhib rau lawv.

xov rau npog stitch machine

Tus naj npawb ntawm bobbins uas tuaj yeem ntsia tau yog ib qho tseem ceeb tshaj qhov txawv ntawm cov tshuab xaws nrog loopers. Qhov kev xaiv ntau tshaj plaws yog plaub lossis tsib lub tshuab xov, lawv tsim nyog rau kev ua haujlwm tsis yog knitwear xwb, tab sis kuj muaj lwm hom ntaub.

Kev xaiv cov xov rau npog cov tshuab xaws yog ib qho tseem ceeb heev. Cov khoom siv xaws no yuav tsum tau yuav cov khoom zoo, ntxiv rau, kev siv cov xov sib txawv ntawm cov thicknesses sib txawv lossis cov khoom sib xyaw ua ke yog qhov tsis tsim nyog. Txwv tsis pub, lub seam yuav tsis zoo. Feem ntau, lub tiaj seam ntawm lub coverlock los yog coverlet yuav tau hla stitches, tab sis cov chaw nyob rau hauv lub tshuab kuj yuav tsis ua hauj lwm, kho qhov twg.yuav luag tsis yooj yim sua ntawm nws tus kheej. Nws yog qhov zoo dua tsis txhob sim nrog kev xaiv ntawm cov xov thiab nqa tag nrho cov bobbins los ntawm ib pawg - qhov no yuav yog qhov kev lees paub ntxiv ntawm kev nyab xeeb ntawm cov txheej txheem.

khoom siv

Lub tiaj tiaj knitted seam tsuas yog tsim los siv cov txheej txheem xaws tshwj xeeb. Thaum xub thawj, cov no tsuas yog cov tshuab ua lag luam xwb, tab sis lawv cov khoom siv hauv tsev yooj yim tau tshwm sim tsis ntev los no. Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas nyob rau hauv ib qho kev lag luam nplai, lub plooj plooj tiaj tus tsuas yog ua haujlwm nkaus xwb, uas yog, muab cov seam tiaj tus, nrog rau lawv cov khoom me me - tsev stitchers.

Zoo ib yam hauv kev ua haujlwm, tab sis ntau dua maneuverable overlocks thiab coverlocks ntau dua ua haujlwm. Nws yog tsim nyog sau cia tias ntau hom stitches ib lub tshuab xaws tuaj yeem ua tau, nws tus nqi ntau dua. Ib tsev neeg stitcher thiab pheej yig overlock tuaj yeem raug nqi txog 20-30 txhiab rubles, thaum cov ntaub pua plag locks feem ntau yog 8-10 txhiab rubles kim dua. Tom ntej no, peb yuav tham txog txhua hom tshuab xaws nrog lub tiaj seam ua haujlwm kom ntxaws ntxiv.

jome stitcher
jome stitcher

Raws li lub npe no nws yog kev cai los txhais cov tshuab npog npog uas tsis ua cov kab uas tsis yog lub tiaj tus lossis cov hlua khi. Nws dhau los ua tseeb tias qhov no yog cov txheej txheem ntawm kev nqaim tshwj xeeb thiab nws yog siv rau stitching canvases ua ke. Nws tsis muaj peev xwm overcasting npoo los yog xaws zoo li lub tshuab pa. Txij li thaum, nyob rau hauv txoj cai, nws tsis muaj lub shuttle, lub qis looper ua nws txoj hauj lwm, thiab nws captures xov los ntawm lub bobbin. Hom tshuab no txawv ntawm ib leeg.tus naj npawb ntawm threads thiab koob. Yog li, rau cov qauv uas muab ob koob, peb threads yog siv, thiab qhov dav ntawm qhov sib txawv ntawm cov koob yog 5.5 hli, nyob rau hauv peb-kab qauv - plaub threads thiab qhov kev ncua deb ntawm lub txheej txheej yog 6.5 hli..

Kev sib txawv ntawm lub tshuab xaws los ntawm lwm cov cuab yeej tshwj xeeb yog qhov yooj yim heev - nws muaj lub tes tsho loj loj overhang (xws li hauv cov tshuab xaws hauv tsev). Vim lub fact tias cov txheej txheem no muaj ob peb possibilities - 4 kab, ob peb manufacturers ua rau lawv. Cov qauv nrov tshaj plaws yog "Janome", "Minerva" thiab "Tsev Neeg" npog.

industrial npog stitch tshuab
industrial npog stitch tshuab

Kev hla dhau

Qhov no yog ib hom tshuab uas feem ntau yog siv rau overcasting cov khoom txiav, txawm li cas los xij, muaj cov qauv uas suav nrog kev ua haujlwm ntawm flatness. Thaum pib, overlocks mus muag nrog ib rab riam tshwj xeeb uas txiav cov ntaub tom qab overcasting nws. Thaum hloov cov cuab yeej mus rau hom stitching, riam yuav tsum raug tshem tawm. Kev ua haujlwm presser ko taw kuj hloov pauv, qib siab uas tuaj yeem hloov kho nyob ntawm qhov tuab ntawm cov khoom raug pub.

Ua ntej xaws, nws yog ib qho tsim nyog los kho cov haujlwm ntawm lub tshuab thiab kho cov xov nro manually. Qhov no tsis yog ib txoj hauj lwm yooj yim thiab nws yog qhov zoo tshaj rau kev xyaum ntawm cov ntaub ntawv ua ntej. Lub tiaj seam nrog ib qho overlock yog ua raws cov quav ntawm cov khoom. Tom qab lub plooj tiav lawm, nws yuav tsum tau nthuav tawm, raws li qhov tshwm sim ntawm cov xoob xoob xoob tau rub tawm, tsim cov seam dav dav. Ib tug yam ntxwv feature ntawm lub overlock yog tsis muaj lub tes tsho overhang. Nws ntseeg tau tias lub overlock yog lub tshuab rau overcasting inelastic fabrics, tab sis qhov no tsis yog tag nrho. Hauv cov qauv niaj hnub no, muaj kev sib txawv tshwj xeeb, uas tso cai rau koj ua haujlwm nrog knitwear.

tailoring ntawm knitwear
tailoring ntawm knitwear

Coverlock

Ib qho kim tshaj plaws, tab sis xaiv ntau hom tshuab yog cov ntaub pua plag. Nws yog dab tsi, tsis yog txhua tus paub. Cov tshuab no tau nruab nrog qhov nruab nrab-qhov loj me, thiab yuav tsum muaj rab riam txiav. Cov khoom siv ntxiv yog tag nrho nyob ntawm tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub pua plag, uas tuaj yeem ncav cuag ntau kaum txhiab rubles. Cov cav tov kim tshaj plaws yog nruab nrog cov khoom siv hluav taws xob thiab cov kev pabcuam hauv lub Hoobkas ua ntej uas tso cai rau koj los hloov txoj hlua khi yooj yim.

Feem ntau ntawm cov qauv qhia txog qhov muaj peev xwm hloov cov koob ua haujlwm thiab cov xov, uas nthuav dav lub peev xwm ntawm lub npog npog. Yog li, nws tuaj yeem ua haujlwm ntawm kev sib tshooj, raspochivalka, ua cov hlua khi thiab ntau lwm yam zoo nkauj thiab ua tiav seams.

Tsev cov cav tov

Cov txheej txheem tau piav qhia saum toj no yog los ntawm qeb ntawm cov tshuab xaws hauv tsev. Lawv yog cov compact loj, lub teeb nyob rau hauv hnyav thiab yooj yim mus use. Lub ntsiab kom zoo dua ntawm lawv feem ntau yog qhov yooj yim ntawm kev hloov kho, yog li ntawd tus seamstress tuaj yeem hloov kho cov xov nro, qhov dav thiab ntev ntawm cov stitches. Manual tuning tso cai rau koj siv tag nrho lub tshuab thiab ua kom nws muaj peev xwm ua tau. Txawm li cas los xij, cov qauv seams twb tau hloov kho ntawm lub Hoobkas.

Ntauxim ntsuas ntawm threads, tsis siv neeg threading hom, yooj yim ntaub pub conveyor.

tiaj tiaj seam
tiaj tiaj seam

Kev siv xov tooj ntawm tes tsis yog tawm ntawm lo lus nug raws li tus kws xaws khaub ncaws tuaj yeem siv ib, ob lossis peb koob raws li nws nyiam. Qee cov qauv ntawm cov tshuab ntawm lawv qhov chaw muaj ib daim ntawv teev lus qhia txog cov pib tshiab hauv kev xaws. Cov tshuab zoo li no tuaj yeem siv hauv tsev. Ntawm lawv muaj cov qauv ntawm cov nqi siv nyiaj, kuj tseem muaj cov kev xaiv uas muaj zog dua motors tsim rau kev ua ub no (xws li tsev lossis studios).

Kev lag luam

Tsis zoo li cov tshuab hauv tsev, lub tshuab npog npog tshuab yog qhov nyuaj heev los tswj. Nws yog tag nrho thiab txawm ntau nqaim tsom tshaj tsev neeg. Lub installation ntawm xws li ib tug stitcher yuav tsum tau ib tug tshwj xeeb rooj-sawv, nws qhov chaw muaj kev debugging ntawm ntau tuning nodes. Nyob rau hauv xws li cov cav tov, nws muaj peev xwm mus nruab ntau koob (txog 8 daim) thiab xov bobbins. Lwm qhov sib txawv yog lub xub ntiag ntawm lub sab sauv expander. Cov cuab yeej no tso cai rau koj ua kom cov seam ntawm cov khoom zoo ib yam los ntawm sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm thiab los ntawm sab xub ntiag, uas yog qhov tshwj xeeb tshaj yog rau kev xaws ris tsho hauv qab. Hauv kev tsim khoom, txhua chav tsev feem ntau yog taw qhia rau cov khoom tshwj xeeb.

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